We don't like to preach. We're crafting a no rules; it-takes-all-kinds; the-more-the-merrier vibe over here at Botanica... except when it comes to tortilla. True Spanish tortilla -- one of our consistent go-tos for brunches; lunches and parties -- is a rare and precious bird on this continent. True tortilla is dense and olive-oil-rich; flipped and browned in a pan on the stovetop; not fluffy or baked (like a frittata). True tortilla deserves your time.So here's our sermon: Shun any recipe that promises shortcuts. Don't make another so-so frittata; take the time to make tortilla instead. Like so many of the best things in life; this marvelous concoction requires concentrated attention and borderline-arduous effort to coax magic from the humblest of ingredients. That means starting with the finest ingredients (farm eggs and the most flavorful potatoes you can find); simmering your potatoes and onions in an indulgent pool of olive oil; giving the egg-potato mixture time to leisurely commune; agitating the pan like a nervous mama bird; and flipping the great golden-brown disc not one but four times. So go forth and make ye a true tortilla! We solemnly swear; on our Spanish bible; that you won't regret it.

• 1 cup olive oil
• 4 large potatoes (or 7-8 small), peeled (if needed) and thinly sliced (1/8 inch)
• Coarse salt
• 1 very large yellow onion (or two medium onions), thinly sliced
• 4 large eggs (or 5 small-medium eggs), beaten and salted
• Smoked paprika (optional)
• Smoked paprika aioli (optional)
• Pan con tomate (toasted and tomato-rubbed bread, optional)

Pour half of the oil into a sauté pan and start adding potato slices; one at a time; tiling them to form a single layer. Alternate potato layers with onions and salt each layer lightly. Pour the rest of the oil over top when done. Cook over a medium flame; covered; lifting potatoes occasionally; until soft but not brown. Drain the pan contents in a colander; reserving the oil for cooking. Combine potato mixture with eggs* and let sit for 15 minutes.Place an 8-9-inch sauté pan; preferably nonstick (which will really; really make your life easier); over high heat; add 3 tablespoons of the reserved oil**; and heat until very hot (but not smoking). Add the potato mixture; immediately lower heat to medium and gently shake the pan side to side to prevent sticking. (This is essential if not using nonstick; but less so with nonstick.)After about six minutes; you should see the uncooked top of the tortilla starting to look a bit less jiggly; and the cooking starting to creep in a bit from the sides. Using a spatula; take a gentle peek at the side of the tortilla -- is it starting to have some nice golden-brown spots? If so; you're just about ready to flip. If not; let it cook a bit longer.When it's flip time; place a large; flat plate over the pan and invert the omelet onto it. Set it aside and; if needed; give the pan a quick wipe with paper towels to get it totally clean. (If a lot of the tortilla has stuck to the pan; salvage what you can; tuck it back onto the tortilla top; and you may be able to re-affix it with future flips.) Add 1 tablespoon of the reserved oil to the pan and slide the tortilla in to brown the other side (don't forget to shake!). Cook it for another three minutes or so and then repeat the flipping 2-3 more times to set the shape (you likely won't need to wipe out the pan any more). Dust with smoked paprika before serving; if you so fancy. We like to serve ours cut in wedges; pie-style; with smoked paprika aioli and pan con tomate.*You can add anything you like to tortilla; if you fancy; we especially like adding fresh asparagus. Give the asparagus a super quick blanch; just to cook it a touch; and then slice it on the bias. Add the asparagus to the potato-onion-egg mixture and let it all hang together before cooking.**You'll have extra oil left over; and you should use it for making aioli; frying eggs; making salad dressing...or most anything; really. Store it in the fridge; and it will last for weeks. The flavor is insane!