Any time you have good beans; really good beans; it’s a reminder of how surprisingly delicious and satisfying the humble little legume can be. Achieving that “man; these beans are so good!” effect requires two things: sourcing flavorful beans and cooking them yourself. All beans are not created equal! If you can’t find any at a farmers market; Rancho Gordo is a fantastic source. We like using small beans for this; like cannellini or Jacob’s cattle.We’re not going to give quantities here; but rather a general idea of how to throw these together. Celery’s optional; as is fennel and basil oil (though we really recommend basil oil). These are lovely to have on hand (as a side for grilled chicken or fish; to toss into a green salad; to quickly warm and serve under a fried egg; or to top with fat slices of ripe tomato) even if they’re just packed with olive oil; shallots; garlic; acid and herbs. They're marvelous in a summery tartine of ripe tomatoes and stone fruit; as well.Note: The recipe below calls for gigante beans; but feel free to sub any favorite bean (Rancho Gordo Yellow Indian Woman beans are a current obsession).

• ⅔ cup dried gigante beans, soaked for at least 3 hours
• 2 bay leaves
• 1½ tablespoon toasted cumin seeds (divided)
• 3 tablespoons toasted coriander seeds (divided)
• 4 garlic cloves, lightly crushed and peeled
• Sea salt
• 2 cups olive oil (or basil oil)
• 3 large shallots, shaved
• 4 cloves garlic, shaved/thinly sliced
• ⅓ cup lemon juice, plus zest from the lemons
• A splash of red wine vinegar

• Basil oil
• Celery, thinly sliced
• Celery leaves
• Fennel, shaved
• Basil
• Parsley

Place beans in a pot with the bay; ½ tablespoon of the cumin; 1 tablespoon of the coriander seeds; the four lightly crushed garlic cloves; and a good pinch of salt. Cover with 4-6 inches of water and bring to a boil. Lower the heat; cover the pot; and let it simmer. Check the beans regularly to see how they’re coming along; and stir every 10 minutes or so (to help ensure even cooking). When they’re ¾ of the way done; add a few good pinches of salt to the pot to up the seasoning a bit. When they’re perfectly done -- ie tender but not falling apart -- strain them (and save the liquid; it’s a fantastic and flavorful base for soup!). Pick out the bay leaves and garlic cloves and discard.Transfer to a large bowl and add a splash of cooking liquid; olive oil or basil oil; shaved shallots and garlic; lemon zest and juice; red wine vinegar; another pinch of sea salt (and any or all of the other goodies you may be adding -- celery stalks and leaves or fennel; herbs). Stir well; taste; and adjust seasoning as needed. You want these to be super savory; flavorful and olive oily. They’ll last for a week in the fridge.